Essex camera review
There are three type of simple repair jobs that I do myself: 1) cleaning the lens; 2) replacing the foam; 3) calibrating the rangefinder; and, 4) regular exercise. I have a list of recommended repair shops at the end of this page.I've seen many, many lenses with "cleaning marks" and comparatively few with actual impact or abrasion damage. Most people would be better off if they never cleaned their lenses - hence the popularity of "protective" UV filters that never come off.You'll need to know the exact distance to the focal plane (Leica techs focus at 1m, 10m, and infinity), but it sounds like a great idea since the dot is small and coherent.It won't work as well with infinity focusing unless you have a big laser and a very distant target (in which case, the local police or FBI might become interested in you as well).But if you find a nice camera that's worth 0 and needs 0 in repairs and you can buy it for 0, then go for it.
Many classic cameras haven't been used in over two decades.
In general, you should store cameras with the shutters uncocked (released) since that is the position with the least tension on the shutter springs.
With something like a Yashica GSN, put the batteries in, then turn the aperture ring back and forth, back and forth multiple times.
Not recommended for beginners: I also have a spanner wrench (which you can buy from Micro Tools) to take off the back and front elements to get access to the aperture blades and inner elements for simple cleaning.
I only do this with rangefinder lenses as they do not have automatic diaphragms and are considerably simpler in design and construction than SLR lenses.